My toaster commission for: jdubs

I'm getting wayyyyyy too good at building these. This's the cleanest toaster pcb I've ever seen. Easily complimented with a super clean ppu desoldering and precision socket installation:



This precision socket is fully wired so you can drop in a composite ppu and it'll run like normal if you ever feel like it. In this case making my mod reversible isn't too much of a pain so why not.

What goes along nicely with the cleanest toaster pcb that has the cleanest ppu job? How about the cleanest assembled kit possible?



Everything is wired up except for rgb which is just 3 more wires. Even sync and all the audio stuff is wired up and already tested. Remember that these kits are HAND built by myself. The kit bypasses the nes audio and video circuits and basically completely redoes both the audio and video circuits. Essentially it's rewiring the system into the best circuits I've found for video + audio.

R.I.P. composite ppu...

how much did this cost?

Conker wrote:

how much did this cost?

https://16bitgamer.canadian-forum.com/t44-drakon-s-modding-service-price-guide

It's a serious mod for people with real money.

Looks awesome! jdubs must be happy now.

ProD1gy84 wrote:

Looks awesome! jdubs must be happy now.

He is. And it's only half done

RGB wiring done:

Here's a little something for jdubs.

How the pcb looks with the rgb ppu installed



I also finished up all the wiring for the inputs of hte kit and adjusted / glued all wires.



Right now this system mixes both powerpak extended audio as well as extended audio from famicom carts into the upgraded audio circuit. The famicom carts require a modded famicom to nes adapter to get the extended audio working. I forgot I need a 47k ohm resistor to mix the powerpak audio in with the default audio so I ordered some of those on ebay today.

That green pcb you see tucked neatly in the corner is the kit pcb that has completely custom video and audio circuits tuned just for a rgb modded nes / famicom system.

What's left to do:

wire up the default audio and the audio switch

install ports in the back

Install the 47k ohm resistor whenever that shows up.

Happy is an understatement!! I can't wait to pipe that baby through an XRGB into my Pioneer plasma.

REALLY looking forward to it

-Jim

jdubs wrote:

Happy is an understatement!! I can't wait to pipe that baby through an XRGB into my Pioneer plasma.

REALLY looking forward to it

-Jim

It has mild jailbars but nothing too terrible as you can see in the video they're nothing massive. Tomorrow I have a job interview so I don't know how much progress I can make then.

More pictures coming when I get the time. Here's something even better in the meantime:



I had to disconnect the ability for the extended audio from famicom carts to play properly on this rig. To wire up the audio to work with both a powerpak and famicom carts would require me to include yet another switch in the console. Wiring up audio from famicom carts interferes with the powerpak causing it not to work. I figure the powerpak will be more popular than the actual carts so I set the wiring to support the powerpak. The GOOD news is that the powerpak audio wiring I did is a 95% accurate recreation of the audio from the actual famicom carts...so it's no huge loss.

Anyway s-video port is installed and functioning. Audio jack and switch are installed and functioning (except for extended audio from the powerpak with regular audio since I'm waiting on a 47k ohm resistor to wire that in). I installed the genesis av port and built a piece of breadboard with all the connections soldered so I can easily solder the rgb + s any any other connections when I get the time.

I need to install a header for the ports at the back incase you ever need to get the pcb out easily. I also need to mount / glue the kit in place. Need to wire up the genesis av por. Need to install that stupid 47k ohm resistor whenever it shows up. That's all that's left to do really.

Since this's only the second proper toaster I've ever built that's not an experimentation model there was still a few "bugs" to work out in the process of building a super toaster. The biggest issue was very frustrating, since the toaster pcb is upside down the ppu sitting in the socket would slowly fall out and lose pin connections because of gravity. This's both extremely annoying and very dangerous as you can fry either your rgb chip, your toaster, or both. Therefore the ONLY option I was left with was to solder the rgb chip right into the toaster itself:



The reason why I didn't find this issue before was because my personal toaster I flipped the pcb right side up and built custom mounts. But doing that you need to wire your own cartridge connector and do a lot of other things. The other commission toaster I built was okay with the ppu being upside down...still I wish I had soldered that ppu in having the ppu being upside down it could fall out at any time.

But now the machine works like a dream. All the carts work every time and there's no more fighting to get a game going.

The second discovery I made also applies to the nes 2. Before I mentioned how wiring up extended audio support for famicom carts interferes with the powerpak...I fixed that. This toaster is the first system I've built that fully supports extended audio from both the powerpak and real famicom carts in both original and upgraded audio. And everything is connected through the cartridge connector no extra wiring or switches are needed!

The rgb test rig with sega genesis adapter:



And the demo video of the final assembly.



This system's 100% done and ready to ship.