Flatscreen tv repair.

Got a tv for free. It kept blowing the main fuse. I checked the fuses and it turned out that the onesthe guy was using and had given me was a 2A fast acting fuse so i checked and the tv is calling for a 4A slow blow fuse. I put one of those in and now the main fuse is holding. So now ive got a working tv with sound and no backlight.

I checked f-100 and f-300 on the backlight inverter board, and f-100 was blown. I had read in a thread that if one of those fuses is blown its probably an internally shorted mosfet chip. So i replaced the fuse at f-100 with the same type of fuse, plugged in the tv, switched it on, and one of the mosfets blew its top off.

Great! so now i knew which mosfet was shorted. i was just hoping that nothing else blew too.

so now ive ordered some 4614 mosfets off ebay and i will post my results soon.

after waiting for nearly 2 weeks i got the mosfets in for this tv. ill be repairing it soon hopefully.

mvsfan wrote:

Got a tv for free. It kept blowing the main fuse. I checked the fuses and it turned out that the onesthe guy was using and had given me was a 2A fast acting fuse so i checked and the tv is calling for a 4A slow blow fuse. I put one of those in and now the main fuse is holding. So now ive got a working tv with sound and no backlight.

I checked f-100 and f-300 on the backlight inverter board, and f-100 was blown. I had read in a thread that if one of those fuses is blown its probably an internally shorted mosfet chip. So i replaced the fuse at f-100 with the same type of fuse, plugged in the tv, switched it on, and one of the mosfets blew its top off.

Great! so now i knew which mosfet was shorted. i was just hoping that nothing else blew too.

so now ive ordered some 4614 mosfets off ebay and i will post my results soon.

after waiting for nearly 2 weeks i got the mosfets in for this tv. ill be repairing it soon hopefully.

cost - this tv is a failure. I replaced the burned out mosfet and the fuse, but there is some other component that is shorted on the inverter board that is roasting the mosfet. i dont want to find it because......

i dont want to spend another nickel on this tv it doesnt have a Vga or dvi port on it.

ill just sell it for parts.

Oh well was worth a shot.

ive got an rgb to vga board im dying to try out and that tv just wouldnt do.

i see no need to spend anymore on it when it doesnt have vga. I was going to use it for an extra tv in my kitchen but id rather sink the money into one that has what i want

all this hdmi only junk thats coming out sucks.

Word. My CRT I bought in like 2001 and I still use it today.

i just want to try messing with a flatscreen. I saw a newly designed SLG that looks compelling from the screenshots.

What consoles are you wanting to connect to your flatscreen? Framemeister is amazing for anything 240p. Getting a TV with low latency is essential too. Getting a good picture (comparible to a good CRT) on a flatscreen can be a daunting task.

You've read fudoh's guide, yes? http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/

What's this new scan line generator you speak of?

Grambo wrote:

What consoles are you wanting to connect to your flatscreen? Framemeister is amazing for anything 240p. Getting a TV with low latency is essential too. Getting a good picture (comparible to a good CRT) on a flatscreen can be a daunting task.

You've read fudoh's guide, yes? http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/

What's this new scan line generator you speak of?

recently I had a chance to trade my jvc x eye for an xrgb2 but in the end i just couldnt do it. I guess i will get one someday.

This new scanline generator is this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130994651791?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Look at the screenshots - the scanlines look good to me they dont look fake. and the price is right.

i talked to the seller who is also the builder and he said he designed them to look more real at 70"% scanlines.

Btw, somewhere in that guide they need to add the joytech Js965 scart switch as being a good one for rgb consoles.

theres no signal loss through it and its built like a tank - your plugs dont fall out of it. and best of all - it has a remote.

I bought one from England and have been using it ever since.

it cost 11.00 for the switch and 65.00 for shipping though and then i had to get a U.S. power supply for it.

Joytech also makes a js965c component switch thats 1 in 7 out that they sell in the us. I own both of them and they are both good.

also since the js965 only has 4 inputs i have the 3 consoles i use the most on the first 3 inputs and on the 4th input i have a manual 5 port scart switch plugged in so i can switch the 4th input to whatever else i want to play. It works very well and allows me to remotely switch between 4 consoles at a time.

Where in the mix are you upscaling and getting H/V sync? I don't think I understand your setup at all.

Grambo wrote:

Where in the mix are you upscaling and getting H/V sync? I don't think I understand your setup at all.

right now im not upscaling at all im using a Crt.


Im planning on using a gbs-8220 rgb to vga board as well as that scanline generator i showed you, when i start messing with flatscreens.