Pvm not working

i just bought another pvm. its the same model as my first one except it has a 20 inch screen. It was supposed to be working but it doesnt.

when i hit the power switch the power light turns green and i can hear the degauss coil. I also feel static on the screen if i put my arm up there.

but no osd ever shows up to tell me im on input 1 etc. its supposed to show the input as soon as you turn it on and i just get no signal at all.

I've never had a pvm. Working inside a crt can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.

Drakon wrote:

I've never had a pvm. Working inside a crt can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.

Oh, i know. I had a high voltage probe for discharging them and also to take readings but i havent been able to find it i havent seen it since i moved.

I havent touched the monitor yet and im aggrevated that i cant find it.

it was supposed to be a working monitor i just think something came loose in shipping.

I just want you to be safe. Please don't attempt to fix it unless you have the proper tools, training, and certification.

i got the proper tool to discharge this and i took the chassis out of it.

Its not good news. On the main ic which has about 40 pins on each side, there is a crack running along every pin going down one side of the IC every trace is broken.
I could probably get it working again by reflowing the pins on that ic but since the board is cracked i dont trust that it wont just crack again. Its a large board with a lot of flex in it since its so thin. Its a lot thinner than most console pcbs.

i may have found someone who does repairs who can use some kind of a bonding kit to bond the pcb and restore the traces.

no idea what that would cost though.

How close are the pins?  Is it possible to hand solder each one back together?  That's quite bad news indeed, probably stress from handling while shipping.

I've repaired a pcb in the past that bubbled and traces just burst. Was a bit of manual resoldering of traces using actual wires / metal legs.

I repaired an arcade pcb that had cut traces, where i just removed the soldermask and flowed solder between the gap. but the board itself wasnt cracked.

I think if i just do that in this case the board will crack more. Id have to glue it or something first and i dont know how the solder would react to the glue.

I hate cheap pcbs.