Viletim's NESRGB - Toaster Install

- I used the NES' voltage regulator, rather than the supplied one. I cleaned up and upgraded the thermal paste to a silver paste. It seems to be dissipating the heat well enough, even while running my Everdrive. So far, so good.
- You can see I've removed the 3 x RGB 220uF capacitors and bridged the signal.
- I've run the audio down a separate cable to reduce interference.
- I've soldered it so that my NES sticks with the composite palette. I haven't even tried the other ones; Maybe someday.





I used a Dremel and JB Weld Quick epoxy with an N64 connector; Had to cut some tin and remove a plastic standoff. Connector is rock solid and looks half decent to me! My soldering got a bit messy here  :( I wasn't expecting to have to ground pin 5. Since this picture, I've cleaned up my rosin.






The EU SCART cables you can buy are junk. I buy them and modify them to minimize interference. Without modification, the audio is horrible from all the video noise.
The attached SCART to BNC adapters are of excellent quality. I buy them at: http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc.html






The first 2 pictures of Vice: Project Doom are of my Sony PVM-8045Q. Camera doesn't pick it up as nicely, but it looks great. The remaining 4 pictures are of my Framemeister and 50" Plasma.

                   

                   

I like the plasma, any reason you removed the caps? Is it because the rgb cable already has built in caps?

Drakon wrote:

I like the plasma, any reason you removed the caps?  Is it because the rgb cable already has built in caps?

Yep, that's exactly it.

Pictures look great. I missed my chance to get Tim's board from the initial batch. No big deal, My retro game budget was already being slightly exceeded so maybe its better that way :p

MaxWar wrote:

Pictures look great. I missed my chance to get Tim's board from the initial batch. No big deal, My retro game budget was already being slightly exceeded so maybe its better that way :p

Always good to spread out purchases.  That's one sexy install, the n64 port gets pretty close to contacting the slot but it's good enough.  For rgb ports I've always been a fan of the model 1 sega genesis port.

Also for anyone who's curious you don't need to wire up 5v and ground directly from the regulator like grambo did, the ppu socket has 5v and ground already from the regulator which is what powers the ppu chip.  The only time I used the 5v and gnd solder pads was when I tried wiring up a nesrgb with its own regulator. Viletim was very careful to use low power parts, this kit is engineering perfection.

Drakon wrote:

Also for anyone who's curious you don't need to wire up 5v and ground directly from the regulator like grambo did, the ppu socket has 5v and ground already from the regulator which is what powers the ppu chip.  The only time I used the 5v and gnd solder pads was when I tried wiring up a nesrgb with its own regulator.  Viletim was very careful to use low power parts, this kit is engineering perfection.

All better now.

Grambo wrote:

Drakon wrote:

Also for anyone who's curious you don't need to wire up 5v and ground directly from the regulator like grambo did, the ppu socket has 5v and ground already from the regulator which is what powers the ppu chip.  The only time I used the 5v and gnd solder pads was when I tried wiring up a nesrgb with its own regulator.  Viletim was very careful to use low power parts, this kit is engineering perfection.

All better now.

You don't even need to do that, just short j3 and call it a day.

Facepalm.

Grambo wrote:

Facepalm.

The whole idea of j3 is it connects the 5v line from the ppu socket to the kit. That solder pad you keep soldering wires to is only needed when j3 is unshorted so you have something to wire up your external power source to the kit with.